Recently, I visited Nairobi, the capital city of Kenya, in the middle of December. Culturally, it was an enriching and learning experience, with many first-time moments on the trip.
As a child, I had some black neighbors. The general impression was that Black people were aggressive and might harm us. We kids used to fear them. Someone taught us to call them "Habsi." So, if we saw a group of Black people coming our way, we would climb onto our roofs and shout, "Habsi, Habsi," surreptitiously observing their unique hairstyles, physical features, and demeanor. Today, having grown up, I realize how unfair and misguided that behavior was. After visiting Kenya and living among its predominantly Black population for about a week, I recognize that what we did as children was not only ignorant but also deeply disrespectful and prejudiced.
My journey started on a sour note. I missed my flight at Mumbai airport, thanks to the poor service quality of Indigo Airlines, which ranks 103rd in the world and among the top 10 worst-performing airlines globally. However, this gave me unexpected time to spend with my dear friends Prathmesh, Priyank, and Chetan. I visited Mumbai's R City Mall and Palladium Mall before taking a flight the next day. The missed connection also led to an unexpected meeting with Mehul, a fellow passenger and a Kutchi Indian living in Nairobi for the past 15 years as a construction businessman. He became my companion and later drove me around Nairobi.
I reached Nairobi early in the morning after a six-hour flight from Delhi. The weather was incredibly pleasant, with a clear sky and AQI in double digits—a welcome change from Delhi's polluted, overcast skies. The city was green and clean, which added to the overall positive impression. I took an Uber to my accommodation at the Adventist LMS Conference Centre. It was a good, economical hotel that served vegetarian food (in Kenya, vegetarian often includes eggs). Outside the hotel, I found large avocados and mangoes for as little as ₹20, which was a delightful surprise.
A common perception is that Kenya is unsafe, but my experience differed. At least in Nairobi, I found the city as safe as any other in India. Contrary to fears of phone snatchers and street crime, the people were well-mannered and courteous.
In some respects, I found Kenyan society more advanced than Indian society. The cleanliness stood out—perhaps because I only visited prominent tourist areas—but the people’s demeanor also reflected politeness and a sense of purpose. The government’s focus on wildlife preservation was commendable. Nairobi is the only national capital in the world with a national park. The societal openness and acceptance were notable; the division among people seemed based on manners and cleanliness rather than race or caste. The openness of girls and boys in social settings and the dating culture were far more progressive than what one typically sees in second-tier Indian cities. Kenyan women were confident and stylish, with their hairstyles and nail art reflecting a keen sense of fashion.
One striking feature of Nairobi was the strong presence of the Indian community. Kutchi, Oswal, Patels, Punjabis, and other groups have transformed parts of Nairobi into a "mini-India." Many businesses are owned and operated by Indians, employing Kenyan workers. The Parklands and Westlands areas are dominated by Indians. These communities have built gated societies with all amenities, offering safety and a great quality of life.
The trip became memorable with visits to the Nairobi National Park, the Giraffe Centre, and the Mamba Conservatory. For the first time, I saw so many animals in the wild and witnessed a cheetah napping under a tree. I wish I could have visited Masai Mara and spent more time in the wilderness, but time constraints and the absence of my family deterred me from indulging further.
Speaking of Masai Mara reminds me of the Masai tribe, known for their fearless nature and traditional practices like drinking animal blood. A trip to Kenya or Nairobi would be incomplete without visiting the Masai Market, where I bought several souvenirs at very reasonable prices. The same wooden artifacts would have cost me much more in India. This highlights the role of affordable labor and raw materials in Kenya.
The resemblance of marketplaces, common language, availability of vegetarian food, and the strong Indian presence made me feel as if Kenyans were part of an extended Indian family. I hope to visit again and explore the places I missed this time, like Mombasa, Masai Mara, and other parts of the East African Union.